Costume jewellery through the decades

Victorian jewellery, 1837 to 1901

Victorian jewellery follows Queen Victoria's reign and the values of the time. Designs were intricate, often set with gemstones, pearls and enamel (a glass-like coating fired onto metal), and they spoke of sentiment and romance.

Mourning jewellery was common too. It was worn in memory of someone who had died, and it often used black onyx or jet, a hard black material made from ancient wood. Victorian pieces are still around today.

Styles you may have at home: mourning jewellery, cameo brooches (a small carved portrait, often in shell), lockets, and chatelaines (a decorative clasp worn at the waist, with short chains to hold small tools).

The 1910s and 1920s: Art Nouveau and Art Deco

Design moved away from the ornate, sentimental Victorian look towards more abstract and geometric shapes. Two styles sit side by side in this period, and they are quite different.

Art Nouveau (French for new art) used flowing lines and natural forms. Flowers, vines and insects decorated the pieces, and it liked asymmetry. It was a break from the rigid shapes that came before.

Art Deco was sleek and modern. It used geometric shapes, sharp lines and symmetry, and it looked glamorous and rich. Bold contrasts of colour were common, and so were combinations of materials such as platinum, diamonds and coloured stones, reflecting new technology and a changing society.

Styles you may have at home: Art Nouveau floral motifs, filigree rings (fine twisted wire worked into a lace-like pattern), long pendant necklaces, and Art Deco geometric shapes in bold colours.

The 1930s and 1940s: Hollywood glamour and the war years

Two items shaped jewellery in these years: the glamour of early Hollywood and the Second World War. Yellow gold stayed popular. It suited the film stars of the day and brought a touch of luxury to everyday wear.

The diamond company De Beers also played a part. Its marketing campaigns promoted diamonds as symbols of love and commitment, which made them common in engagement rings and shaped the look of the era.

Platinum, gold and silver were the main metals. Pieces were elegant but understated, in keeping with the austerity of wartime. Jewellery carried on as a sign of style through hard times, a mix of luxury and resilience.

Styles you may have at home: statement cocktail rings, rhinestone brooches (rhinestones are glass or crystal cut to sparkle), utility jewellery made from other materials, and diamonds.

The 1950s and 1960s: screen icons, pop art and Mod

These decades mixed Hollywood glamour with the Mod movement and the start of the hippie years. Jewellery became a way of showing who you were, and it followed the quick cultural changes of the time.

Film stars such as Marilyn Monroe and Elizabeth Taylor made jewellery a sign of elegance. Diamonds glittered on black and white screens, while other designs turned bold and colourful. Pop art and space age ideas appeared in jewellery too, alongside classic glamour.

Styles you may have at home: charm bracelets, layered necklaces in bold colours, Bakelite jewellery (an early hard plastic), bib necklaces that lie across the chest, and yellow gold pieces.

The 1970s and 1980s: Bohemian and Glam Rock

The Bohemian, or boho, look celebrated a free-spirited life and natural materials such as leather, beads and feathers. Necklaces set with turquoise, macramé bracelets (knotted cord) and layers of beaded pieces were typical.

Glam Rock took its lead from stage performers such as David Bowie, Marc Bolan and Freddie Mercury. It was excess and theatre: chunky statement pieces with crystals, rhinestones and metallic touches, from oversized hoop earrings to elaborate chokers. It showed confidence and extravagance.

Pieces you may have at home include big hoops, wide bangles and cuffs, bold earrings, studded and chain pieces, and long necklaces with stone beads.

The 1990s to today

The 1990s and 2000s split in two. Minimalism favoured clean lines and simple, understated pieces. The Bling era went the other way, with flashy, showy designs set with diamonds and other stones. Celebrity culture grew, and well-known figures promoted luxury brands and aspirational styles.

Styles you may have at home from these years: simple gold or silver stud earrings, delicate chain necklaces, and oversized hoops from the Bling era.

From the 2010s to now, jewellery has moved towards sustainability and personalisation. There is more attention to sustainable materials and ethical sourcing, and more interest in bespoke designs that tell a personal story. Styles you may have at home: ethically sourced gemstone jewellery, nameplate necklaces, stackable rings, and charms with a meaning.

Trends have shifted with fashion, society and technology, but jewellery from any era keeps its sentimental and its design interest. It also ties us to our history and culture.